Part 11 Back Axle Decisions cont
So where can this axle be found - quite simply in any SD1V8. However, that is where the problem starts, the crown wheel and pinion together with the bearings, shims and cage will have to be transferred into the TR7 axle casing. This is not a job for the average TR owner as the shim clearances, gear tooth track, preloads and backlash must be correct. Without the right tools it is impossible to achieve this. I have often heard of people changing over the complete unit, but in most cases the whine from the resultant unit (usually from the gear track) is not, in my estimation, acceptable. The simplest alternative is to part exchange your TR7 axle for one already converted. These are available from Rimmer Bros, S&S Preparations, Robsport and other TR7/8 suppliers - the big advantage is that you can use their guarantee if anything goes wrong or the axle is too noisy. However, guarantees do not last forever, so either fit the axle before the main conversion is carried out, i.e. with the TR7 engine still in situ, so that it can be tested on the road; or buy the axle just before the conversation is complete so that it can be tested soon after receipt.
One other consideration at this point, is whether to replace the half shaft bearings. This is definitely a garage job as a 5ton press will be required. If the bearings are noisy or worn now is the time to do it.
Back Axle Removal
Fitting the replacement axle is not a difficult operation particularly as the rear trailing arms and upper link bushes will have been replaced as an earlier part of the conversion. So there will be no difficult bolts to remove.
i) Trolley jack. (If two are available, so much the better).
ii) Two axle stands.
iii) Large socket set and a range of engineering spanners.
iv) Wooden blocks to chock the front wheels and axle.
This procedure is designed to remove the complete axle together with the rear springs and shock absorbers. It should be carried out on level ground preferably on a concrete surface.
1) Chock the front wheels both at the front and back of the wheels.
2) Release the handbrake.
3) Disconnect the battery - earth lead first.
4) Loosen the wheel nuts on both rear wheels.
5) FHC - remove rear parcel shelf.
DHC - remove vertical carpets in hood stowage area.
6) DHC & FHC remove fuel filler cover inside boot.
7) FHC - remove vertical trim panel in boot if still fitted.
8) Remove the three screws securing the top shock absorber access plate on each side. Then remove the two plates.
9) The top nuts of the shock absorber can now be seen - they may be Nilocks or just two lock nuts. Slacken both but DO NOT REMOVE.